What a Full Siding Replacement Includes, Step by Step

New siding is only as good as the layers behind it. A full replacement removes the old cladding, repairs what the wall has been hiding, and rebuilds the water barrier before the first new panel goes on.

Knowing each step helps you compare bids, since a lower price can mean skipped work behind the siding.

For reference, siding replacement in Wisconsin from Buckshot Exteriors covers tear-off, sheathing repair, new house wrap and siding, with most homes finished in two to three days.

Choose the siding material before tear-off

Vinyl, fiber cement and engineered wood each use different trim, fasteners and clearances, so the material has to be settled before the crew orders anything. Vinyl costs the least and needs little upkeep, while fiber cement and engineered wood move less with temperature and hold paint longer.

If you want less seasonal movement, James Hardie fiber cement siding adds fire resistance and holds its shape through temperature swings.

Siding tear-off and wall inspection

Crews remove the old siding, trim and any old house wrap down to the sheathing. Tear-off is the only point where rot, insect damage and gaps in the sheathing are visible.

Ask how damaged sheathing will be priced, ideally per sheet, and ask to see any rot before it is covered.

Sheathing repair before new siding

Soft or delaminated sheathing gets cut out and replaced so fasteners have solid material to grip. Siding nails need at least 1 1/4 inches of penetration into sheathing or framing, which weak boards cannot provide.



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House wrap and the water-resistive barrier

House wrap sheds the water that gets behind the siding. Each course should overlap the one below it, like shingles, so water always runs outward.

Seams get taped, and the wrap laps over the top of flashing so water stays on the outside face. Torn or missing wrap is a common cause of wall rot that shows up years after a siding job.

Window and door flashing

Openings are where most wall leaks start. Flashing goes on in order, bottom first, then the sides overlapping it, then the top, so each piece sheds water over the one below.

Ask whether the bid includes new flashing at every window and door, since reused flashing leaves the old weak point in place.

How the new siding is installed

Vinyl can expand and contract half an inch or more along a 12-foot panel, so it must hang loose on its nails. Installers leave about 1/32 inch under each nail head and at least 1/4 inch at trim and openings.

Fiber cement and engineered wood move far less, so they are fastened tighter and their cut edges are sealed or painted before the panels go up.

Lead-safe work on older homes

Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint on old siding and trim. Federal rules require renovation contractors on those homes to be lead-safe certified and to contain dust and debris during tear-off, so ask for the firm's certification before work starts.

Trim, cleanup and the final walk-through

Trim, soffit and fascia go on last, along with sealant at the joints the manufacturer specifies. Before final payment, walk the house with the installer and look for loose panels, gaps at trim, and nails left in the lawn.